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You’re Here: Home » Home Insulation  »  Products  »  Fiber Glass  »  ComfortTherm® Batts and Rolls

ComfortTherm® Batts and Rolls

R-11 / R-38
ComfortTherm® insulation is a lightweight, thermal and acoustical insulation made of long, resilient glass fibers bonded with an acrylic thermosetting Formaldehyde-free™ binder. ComfortTherm® insulation is wrapped in plastic for a more comfortable installation with less itch and dust. The plastic facer also serves as a vapor retarder. In regions that don't require a vapor retarder and for attic retrofit application in other areas, JM offers ComfortTherm® insulation that does not have a vapor retarder.

ComfortTherm® insulation is also available in a reverse-flange underfloor configuration. Install with the vapor retarder toward the floor.

Application Surfaces

Use ComfortTherm® Batts and Rolls in your home for the appropriate application surfaces listed in the table below. Not all products are used in all applications. Enter your zip code for the recommended R-value for your geographical area.

R-Value Calculator

Zip Code:       

Note: R-Value calculator for insulation only.

   Application Good Better Best
   Attic R-38 R-49 R-60
   Cathedral Ceiling R-30 R-38 R-38
   Wall Cavity R-13 R-15 R-19
   Floor R-19 R-30 R-30
   Basement Wall R-13 R-15 R-19
   Crawl Space Wall R-19 R-19 R-19

*please consult your local building code for the minimum R-value required

Batt Insulation Tips

  1. For ceiling and attic spaces, use batts of R-30 or R-38. In exterior walls R-13 to R-21 is commonly used, while in interior walls where insulation is used for sound control, R-11 is used most frequently.
  2. Open the packages by cutting lengthwise through the side panel. Be careful to avoid cutting the product or facing. Insulation is compression packaged. Handling or fluffing the product during installation helps the product expand to full thickness and delivers the highest R-value.
  3. Gently push batts into the cavity so that it sits all the way in, especially at the corner and edges. Then, fluff it to its full expansion by pulling it forward to fill the depth of the cavity. The fit should be snug,
  4. With faced batts make sure the vapor retarder is facing the conditioned interior space, unless building codes specify otherwise.
  5. Allow friction to hold the batts in place. Or you can staple the flanges of faced batts to the inside or face of the joists. (Stapling on the inside is preferred by many drywallers because it leaves the edges of the framing members easier to locate. However, your local building codes may require you to overlap the flanges and staple them to the edges of the framing members.)
  6. Take care not to stretch the facing too tight as you staple, which can over compress the batt, and avoid gaps and puckers.
  7. Secure floor insulation with wire fasteners, sometimes called "lightning rods." Press the fasteners so they bow up gently against the subflooring without compressing it. Space the fasteners at least six inches from each end of the batt and 12" - 24" apart.
  8. Cut insulation about an inch wider than the space using a sharp utility knife against a safe backstop, such as an unfinished floor or other smooth, flat surface. Always cut on the unfaced side of the batt.
  9. Johns Manville's EasyFit® batts have vertical perforations at intervals along the width of the batt so cutting with a knife is not needed. Simply grip the insulation on either side of the perforations and tear to trim it to the desired width.
  10. For shorter spaces, cut the insulation to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Compression changes the R-value of the insulation.
  11. If it takes more than one batt to fill the height of a wall cavity, make sure the two pieces are butted snugly together.

Roll Insulation Tips

  1. Open the packages by cutting lengthwise through the side panel. Be careful to avoid cutting the product or facing. The insulation will quickly expand to its full volume when the bag is opened.
  2. Rolls must be measured and cut to fit into wall cavities. Cut insulation about an inch wider than the space using a sharp utility knife against a safe backstop, such as an unfinished floor or other smooth, flat surface. Always cut on the unfaced side of the batt.
  3. Cut the insulation to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Compression changes the R-value of the insulation.
  4. Gently push insulation into the cavity so that it sits all the way, especially at the corner and edges. Then, fluff it to its full expansion by pulling it forward to fill the depth of the cavity. The fit should be snug.
  5. With faced insulation make sure the vapor retarder is facing the conditioned interior space, unless building codes specify otherwise.
  6. Allow friction to hold the insulation in place. Or you can staple the flanges of faced insulation to the insides or face of the joists. (Stapling on the inside is preferred by many drywallers because it leaves the edges of the framing members easier to locate. However, your local building codes may require you to overlap the flanges and staple them to the edges of the framing members.)
  7. Take care not to stretch the facing too tight as you staple, which can over compress the insulation, and avoid gaps and puckers.
  8. Secure floor insulation with wire fasteners, sometimes called "lightning rods." Press the fasteners so they bow up gently against the subflooring without compressing it. Space the fasteners at least six inches from each end of the batt and 12" - 24" apart.
  9. When installing rolls in an unfinished attic or other large open area, simply unroll the insulation in place.
  10. Wherever there are adjacent rolls, make sure they fit snugly together.

Learn how to install batt insulation.

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