• Insulation Basics
• Money Saving Tips
• Insulation Projects
• How To Install
• Products

Insulating Your Home Office

If you run a home-based business or are a telecommuter, or even if you just need to take work home from the office occasionally, then you know that peace and quiet is important to making a home office a productive work environment. After all, noise can interfere with your ability to get things done and disrupt phone calls and meetings, and it can also interrupt your concentration. And with computers, fax machines, telephones and other equipment, a home office can also be a source of unwanted noise in other rooms.

To ensure your home office is as quiet as possible for you and everyone else in your home, you'll want to insulate both the interior walls and exterior walls. You'll want insulation that provides good sound control and thermal control.

JM has the right insulation products with the right R-values you need for a well insulated home office, including ComfortTherm® insulation, which is poly-encapsulated for less itch and dust.

How to Install Insulation in Interior Walls

Installation Tips

1. To install in interior walls for good sound control, apply caulk between the top plates and at the bottom plate and floor. You should apply sealants or caulks only to clean, dry, oil-free surfaces. Smooth caulking with your fingertip or a putty knife.
2. If you are using faced batts, place the batts into the wall cavity and staple the flanges of the batts to the inside or the face of the studs about every 12". If you are using unfaced batts, place the insulation into the cavity, making sure that it is the correct size and fits snugly at the sides and ends and does not protrude in the back.
3. If the insulation is too long, cut it to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Use a sharp utility knife and straightedge. Cut batts on a smooth, flat surface, and cut them about 1" larger than the framing cavity. If the material is too short, cut a piece to size to fill the gap.
4. Fill in any narrow gaps between joists by forcing pieces of unfaced insulation into the gaps with a screwdriver or putty knife.

Related Products

How to Install Insulation in Exterior Walls

Installation Tips

Insulation should be installed in all exterior walls that separate conditioned spaces from unconditioned spaces, including knee walls and basement walls.

1. If you are using faced batts, place the batts into the wall cavity and staple the flanges of the batts to the inside or face of the studs about every 12 inches. Kraft facing must not be left exposed. It must be covered with gypsum board or another approved interior finish. Where an exposed application is required, use FSK-25 flame-resistant faced insulation. If you are using unfaced batts, place the insulation into the cavity, making sure that it is the correct size and fits snugly at the sides and ends and does not protrude in the back.
2. If the insulation is too long, cut it to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Use a sharp utility knife and straightedge. Cut batts on a smooth, flat surface, and cut them about 1" larger than the framing cavity. If the material is too short, cut a piece to size to fill the gap.
3. Fill in any narrow gaps between joists by forcing pieces of unfaced insulation into the gaps with a screwdriver or putty knife.
4. To control air leakage, apply caulk or foam sealants around openings like window and door frames and any openings where wires or pipes go through the exterior wall.

To apply a vapor retarder:

1. To apply the poly film, start at the top plate in one corner of the room.
2. Pull the film tight and staple at least every 12 inches.
3. Drive staples at the center of every stud and around openings, working around the room.
4. Overlap the sheets by one complete cavity to minimize leakage. Then staple evenly through, fastening both sheets to the studs at one- to two-foot intervals.
5. Pull the film tight along the sole plate and staple in the same manner, making sure the staples are driven flat, flush to the stud surface.
6. Trim out the poly from over windows, doors and electrical boxes.

NOTE: In areas of the country where vapor retarders are not required, bathrooms would require unfaced insulation and no poly film covering to allow moisture to escape.

Related Products

Copyright ©2008, Johns Manville, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Global Sites | SpecJM.com | Site Map | News Archives Industry Resources | Privacy Policy | Legal Notices

Product & Sales Information: (800) 654-3103